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Article #4: Buying and selling gems

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In the business of buying and selling rubies and blue sapphires changes in the
precious stones there are a number of course of a day, and all specified what
little tricks picked up along the way, times those stones look best/worst. But,
tricks that often make the difference to the authors' astonishment, there was
between profit and loss. Collectively, we no consensus as to what those times are.
might call them "experience," for that is This was all the more interesting in that
normally how they are acquired and the a few stated that they try to coordinate
price is, usually, high. "Experience" of their buying/ selling of these stones
this sort is not found in gemological with the time of day in which the color
texts; it comes only through hard knocks appearance was best (= selling) or worst
- i.e., buying stones from someone who (= buying).
has a bigger box of experience than your Spurred on by curiosity, the authors and
own - or, via a bit of friendly advice two other AIGS staff carried out their
passed on by one who has been there own experiments. A selection of rubies
before. Most dealers have a collection of and blue sapphires of mixed "type
this "experience," kept in a box at the categories" (see Sersen, 1988) was
back of the safe or in some dusty drawer. periodically examined for two weeks.
It amounts to the small pile of gems North and east window lighting was used.
which are unsalable; the gems you have Weather conditions during this period
learned valuable lessons by buying. In ranged from bright and sunny to dark and
other words, gems you should not have rainy. The purpose of these experiments
bought in the first place. was, of course, to see if the stones
One bit of experience that every stone would change at all in color appearance.
dealer worth his rocks soon acquires is
that a stone's appearance is not The gems were viewed four times daily.
constant. Instead, it can and often does Hue, lightness and saturation was
change with the quality of light under recorded on each occasion, together with
which it is viewed. And a change in color respective weather conditions. These
appearance often means a change in value. notations were based strictly on visual
In the days before electric light observation. No conclusive results were
sources, traders could only view their had, possibly because no comparison
prospective purchases under natural light reference was used; only the testers'
or by the light of a candle. Natural memories were involved, just like with
light means direct sunlight and skylight most dealers.
(light coming from all directions of the Now more curious than ever, the authors
sky except directly from the sun). took a formal written survey of 20
Some dealers would examine a stone at colored-stone traders in order to compare
various times of the day, realizing that their answers and see what patterns, if
the position of the sun in the sky, any, might emerge.
together with weather conditions, The questions asked concerned the
affected overall color appearance; others lighting conditions used for buying and
took it one step further, viewing the gem selling, whether rubies/blue sapphires
in sunlight, skylight and in the shade of change color appearance at different
a tree in order to get an idea of how it times of the day (and if so, when do they
would look in any lighting situation. look best/worst) and specifically what
Similar practices continue to this day, factors are thought responsible for color
despite the availability of artificial appearance changes when such changes are
lights of various kinds. seen.
So, why examine gems under natural light, All 20 traders were interviewed in
the quality of which is subject to a Bangkok. They consisted of 9 Thais, 6
myriad of changing weather conditions, Americans, 3 Burmese, 1 Canadian and 1
when our Modern Age offers us Malaysian. The majority are local
incandescent and fluorescent (including wholesalers and sales personnel for local
simulated daylight) lighting? For that wholesalers. The others consist of
matter, why bother to view a gem under Thailand-based brokers and overseas-based
more than one light source, be it natural dealers who buy in Thailand and/or Sri
outdoor light at a given time(s) of the Lanka and sell in Europe and/or America.
day vs. the stone's appearance in the The trade experience of those questioned
shade, or in fluorescent simulated ranged from 2 to 50 years, with most
daylight vs. incandescent lighting? The having at least 10 years experience.
answers to those questions lie in whether Every attempt was made not to phrase
you are an astute buyer or seller, and in questions in a leading way. People were
what part of the world you happen to be simply asked questions and encouraged to
conducting business. "talk on" for as long as they wanted,
"One bit of experience that every stone without prejudicing comments from the
dealer worth his rocks soon acquires is interviewer.
that a stone's appearance is not "All agreed that the color appearance of
constant. Instead, it can and often does rubies and blue sapphires changes in the
change with the quality of light under course of a day, and all specified what
which it is viewed. And a change in color times those stones look best/worst. But,
appearance often means a change in to the authors' astonishment, there was
value." no consensus as to what those times are."
Viewing gems under natural light Survey results
As in other parts of the world, it is What lighting do you use when buying
common practice in Thailand for dealers stones?
and professional buyers to view colored Most people (75%) said they buy ruby and
stones at a table situated at a window. sapphire after examining those stones
Natural light is the accepted lighting under natural skylight only. Of those,
"standard," some dealers and buyers seven people prefer north or northwest
preferring north skylight only. skylight, seven use any direction of
In the days before the GIA Diamondlite, skylight, one specified north or south
such was also the case internationally skylight and one south skylight only. Of
with the color grading of diamonds. the remaining 20%, one buys only after
Writing in 1916, Frank B. Wade notes in viewing each stone under north skylight
his classic volume on diamonds: and direct sunlight; one uses north
"In the first place see that you have a skylight or a "daylight lamp"; two view
good north light, unobstructed by their prospective purchases under
buildings or other objects. There must multiple natural and artificial lighting
not be any coloured surface near by to conditions; one said he buys using
reflect tinted light, as a false estimate "whatever lighting arrangement happens to
might easily result."In the second place, be available."
do not attempt to judge stones at all Lighting used when selling stones?
closely except in the middle of the day, The majority (55%) of those questioned
say between 10 A.M. and 2 P.M. Very said they use skylight for selling as
erroneous results may easily be had by well as buying. Several stated
neglecting this precaution."Dark or dull categorically that the color appearance
days should be avoided also. One must of rubies and sapphires changes with the
have plenty of good neutral light to make time of day and they therefore prefer to
fine comparisons." buy in "bad light" and sell in "good
What Mr. Wade has to say about north light." The rational behind this is that
light and (especially) weather conditions if the stone appears reasonably nice
is echoed by many local colored-stone under less complimentary lighting, it
traders today. However, the authors of will look good under any (natural)
this article were particularly struck by lighting. Selling in "good light" means
the comment "between 10 A.M. and 2 P.M." exactly what it implies: during times
as it is reminiscent of remarks heard in when natural lighting conditions make the
Thailand and Burma about rubies and blue gem look best.
sapphires looking "better" or "worse" at One dealer said he buys in Sri Lanka
different times of day. using only northwest skylight, and sells
So, wondered the authors, does the in his U.S. office under quartz halogen
quality of natural light vary enough to lighting. Another stated she buys rubies
cause noticeable differences in the under north skylight, but prefers selling
appearance of rubies and blue sapphires them under "direct sunlight in the
at different times? Not only had Bangkok afternoon, because the light is yellow."
dealers mentioned this before, but some In both instances, the lighting used for
had gone so far as to say that they selling is perceived as complimentary to
regulate their buying and selling the gem's color appearance.
according to the time of day and weather The rest largely buy in skylight and sell
conditions. in whatever lighting is available or
It was decided to telephone a few local under lighting conditions expressly
colored-stone dealers, all of whom have requested by a customer, such as skylight
been in the trade for years, and ask them from a particular window direction.
the following questions: Obviously, dealers who do all their
Do rubies and/or blue sapphires change buying and selling from one office
appearance at different times of the location have more control over lighting
day?If yes, when do rubies look better conditions than does a broker who must
worse? When do blue sapphires look better sell - and accept consignments - under
worse? whatever lighting is available, natural
All agreed that the color appearance of or artificial.






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