A Jewelry Designer's Guide to Gemstone Bead Quality

The first section of this article will briefly introduceapplies to gemstone beads as well. Beads are
the ratings system for diamonds and preciousgenerally rated with a lettering system A-C where
semi-precious gemstones. The second section willa rating of "A" is a higher quality bead than a
relate this to gemstone bead ratings; how therating of "C". This system is often used to rate
systems are similar and different and what thisother types of beads, such as glass crystals as
means to a designer of handcrafted gemstonewell. In addition to hardness, other features are
jewelry.considered such as color, clarity and also the polish
Diamond and Gemstone Ratings(the quality of the finish). In addition, the quality of
There is a significant, rigid and reliable ratingthe hole drilling is important. Good quality beads will
system in place for diamonds and precioushave symmetrical holes and the edges of the
gemstones that are sold in the context of fineholes will also be smooth, not jagged. With
jewelry. Typical precious gemstones include rubies,respect to size, it is generally true that the larger
sapphires, and emeralds. With respect tothe bead, the more it costs, however this is not
diamonds, the ratings system takes into accountalways the case. It can be more difficult to polish
the four main properties of diamonds that are: 1)many tiny beads, thus some of the smaller beads
Carat, 2) Cut, 3) Color and 4) Clarity. Togethercan actually cost more. Since semi-precious
these are referred to as the "4 C's". Carat refersgemstone beads are often sold on temporary
to the weight/size of the diamond and the cutstrands, another factor that is unique to buying
refers to whether the proportions of the cutbeads is whether or not they are properly
stone result in the best sparkle. A colorlessmatched. The more similar in size the beads are,
diamond gets a higher rating than one with athe better the strand will be rated.
more yellow color and diamonds with fewUnfortunately, not every bead manufacturer or
imperfections or "inclusions" in the stone are ratedretailer uses this, already imperfect, system the
the best for clarity. These four C's can indicatesame way. It is important to keep this in mind
the overall value of a diamond.when buying beads labeled AA or AAA. Beads
In the case of precious gemstones (rubies,that truly qualify for these ratings (and the price!)
emeralds, and sapphires) and semi-precious (allshould have the following features: 1) attractive
other colored stones) the rating system is(or even rare) color, 2) translucent, clarity, 3)
somewhat different. Precious and semi-preciousshiny, highly polished, 4) smooth symmetrical
gemstones vary in their "hardness" on a scaleshape 5) evenly and completely drilled holes, and
from 1-10. The hardness refers to the ability of5) accurate sizes.
the gemstone to be scratched by anotherThere are many beads on the market that are
gemstone of a given hardness. Diamonds are thevery nice and useful for jewelry making that do
hardest of all stones. Clarity is also an importantnot necessarily qualify for an "A" rating. Beads
factor in properly evaluating precious andwith an "AB" rating or even a "B" rating are
semi-precious stones. In the case of translucentabundant on the market, and they serve a useful
gemstones, a lack of inclusions generally translatespurpose as spacers or as a small component in
into a clear, sparkling gemstone, thereforejewelry where those beads are not necessarily
increasing its value. Many inclusions typically resultthe focus. The beads may have slightly
in a "milky" or dull look and likewise decrease aasymmetrical shapes or a more opaque
gemstone's value. Color can also play a factor inappearance. In some cases a bead reamer may
gemstone value in that a particular color is morebe necessary to widen a hole that is incomplete.
rare, and is often more valuable as a result. ForIn conclusion, there are many similarities between
example, garnet comes in several different colorsthe rating systems for diamonds, for precious and
including red, burgundy, green and brown/amber.semi-precious gemstones used for making fine
The green garnet is typically a more expensivejewelry and the rating system for semi-precious
gemstone due to its rarity.gemstone beads. Many of the same factors are
Gemstone Bead Ratingsconsidered, however there is a little less "rigor" in
Beads that are polished, drilled gemstones usedthe system when it comes to beads. As long as
for handcrafted jewelry are rated using a similar,the beader is aware of the factors, it will be
but a much simpler and less rigorous system. Aspossible to find a reliable source for high quality
described previously, the hardness of a gemstonegemstone beads.
plays a role in determining the overall value. This