| Celebrating a Special Occasion with Jewelry | | | | why the qualifier is being used. |
| Jewelry and gems, The Buying Guide | | | | 4. Is the clarity acceptable, or do too many |
| Colorful choices in colored Gemstones | | | | inclusions detract from the beauty of the |
| Important advice before you buy colored | | | | gemstone? |
| gemstone | | | | Are there any flaws, inclusions, or natural |
| What to ask when buying the gemstone | | | | characteristics in this stone that might make it |
| Asking the right questions is the key to knowing | | | | more vulnerable to breakage with normal wear? |
| what you're getting when it comes to buying | | | | This is a particularly important question when |
| gemstones. It is also the only way you can be | | | | considering a colored gemstone. |
| sure what you are comparing when considering | | | | While visible inclusions are more common in |
| gems from different jewelers. Be sure the | | | | colored gems than in diamonds, and their |
| jeweler can answer your questions, or can get | | | | existence has much less impact on value than |
| the answers for you. Then, be sure the jeweler is | | | | they have on diamond value, value is nonetheless |
| willing to put the answers in writing on your bill of | | | | reduced if the inclusions or blemishes affect the |
| sale. Finally, verify the facts; double check that | | | | gemstone's durability, or are so numerous that |
| the stone is as represented, by having it | | | | they mar its beauty. |
| examined by a qualified gemologist appraiser. In | | | | Be especially careful to ask whether or not any |
| this way you'll have no doubt about what you are | | | | inclusion breaks the stone's surface, since this |
| getting, and you'll begin to develop a solid | | | | may weaken the gemstone, particularly if the |
| relationship with the jeweler from whom you | | | | imperfection is in a position normally exposed to |
| make the purchase, based on confidence and | | | | wear, like the top of the stone or around the |
| trust. And, in the event the stone is not as | | | | girdle. This would reduce the gemstone's value |
| represented, you'll know in time; and have the | | | | significantly. On the other hand, if the flaw is in a |
| information you need, to get your money back. | | | | less vulnerable spot, where it can be protected by |
| Questions to ask when buying a diamond | | | | the setting, it may be of minimal risk and have |
| You should always have very specific information | | | | little effect on value. |
| before purchasing a fine diamond weighing one | | | | A larger number of inclusions will usually detract |
| carat or more. For smaller stones, the information | | | | noticeably from the beauty, especially in terms of |
| may not be so readily available, since most | | | | liveliness, and will also generally weaken the |
| jewelers don't take the time to grade them | | | | gemstone and make it more susceptible to any |
| precisely. An experienced jeweler, however, | | | | below or knock. Such gemstones should be |
| should be able to provide information regarding | | | | avoided unless the price is right and you're willing |
| quality for stones from a half carat and up, or | | | | to assume the risk. |
| offer to find it for you. Indeed, some laboratory | | | | Also, certain gems, as mentioned previously, are |
| are now providing grading reports for diamonds | | | | more brittle than others, and may break or chip |
| from 0.47 carats and up. | | | | more easily, even without flaws. These |
| Also keep in mind that since it is not possible to | | | | gemstones include opal, zircon, and some of the |
| grade mounted diamonds accurately, we | | | | new and increasing ly popular gems, such as iolte |
| recommend that fine diamonds weighing one | | | | (water sapphire) and tanzanite. This does not |
| carat or more be purchased unmounted, or | | | | mean you should avoid buying them, but it does |
| moved from the setting and then remounted. In | | | | mean you should give thought to how they will be |
| jewelry containing numerous small diamonds, the | | | | worn and how they will be set. Rings and |
| stones are graded before they are set and | | | | bracelets are particularly vulnerable, since they are |
| information may be on the sales tag. If not, it is | | | | more susceptible to blows or knocks; brooches, |
| extremely difficult to know for sure what the | | | | pendants, and earrings are less vulnerable. |
| true quality is, and much can be concealed by a | | | | 5. Do you like the color? How close is the color to |
| setting. We recommend buying such pieces only | | | | its pure spectral shade? Is it too light? Too dark? |
| from a knowledgeable jeweler with a good | | | | How does the color look in different types of |
| reputation. | | | | lights? |
| Here are the basic questions to as and | | | | Learn to look at color critically. Become familiar |
| information that needs to be included on the bill of | | | | with the rarest, and most valuable, color of the |
| sale of your diamond: | | | | gem of your choice. But after you do this, decide |
| 1. What is the exact carat weight? Be sure the | | | | what you really like, for yourself. You may prefer |
| stone's weight is given, not its spread. | | | | a color that might be less rare, and therefore |
| 2. What is its color grade? And what grading | | | | more affordable. Be sure the color pleases you; |
| system was used? | | | | don't buy what you think you should buy unless |
| 3. What is its clarity (flaw) grade? Again, ask what | | | | you really like it. |
| system was used? | | | | 6. Is the color permanent? |
| 4. What shape is it? Round, pear, marquise? | | | | This question should be asked in light of new |
| 5. Is it well cut for this shape? How would the | | | | treatments (such as diffusion) and also because |
| "make" be graded: ideal, excellent, good? | | | | color in some gemstones is prone to fading. two |
| 6. What are the exact millimeter dimensions of | | | | examples are amethyst and kunzite (one of the |
| the stone? | | | | new and increasingly popular gems). Just which |
| 7. Is this stone accompanied by a diamond grading | | | | ones will fade and which won't, and how long the |
| report or certificate? Ask for a full report. | | | | process might take, no one can know. This |
| Be sure to find out what system was used to | | | | phenomenon has never affected the popularity of |
| grade the stone. If GIA terms are used, ask if | | | | amethyst and we see no reason for it to affect |
| GIA standards and methods have been applied to | | | | kunzite's popularity, but we feel the consumer |
| grading the stone (Diamond). | | | | should be aware of it. There is evidence that too |
| Be sure to get the exact millimeter dimensions of | | | | much exposure to strong sunlight or intense heat |
| the stone; the dimensions can be approximated if | | | | contributes to fading in these gemstones, so we |
| the stone is mounted. For a round stone, be sure | | | | suggest avoiding sun and heat. It may be wise to |
| you are given two dimensions for the stone's | | | | wear these gems primarily for "evening" or |
| diameter; since most are not perfectly round, you | | | | "indoor" activities. |
| need the highest and lowest. For fancy shapes, | | | | 7. Does the gemstone need protective setting? |
| get the dimensions of the length and width. | | | | The setting may be of special importance when |
| Always get the dimension from the table to the | | | | considering gemstone like tanzanite, opal, or |
| culet as well, that is, the depth the stone. | | | | emerald. They require a setting that will offer |
| Be especially careful if the diamond is being taken | | | | some protection; for example, one in which the |
| out on consignment, on a jeweler's memorandum | | | | main stone is surrounded by diamonds. A design in |
| or sale slip, or on a contingency sale. Having the | | | | which the gemstone is unusually exposed, such as |
| measurements in writing helps protect you from | | | | in a high setting or one with open, unprotected |
| being accused of switching should you have to | | | | sides, would be undesirable. |
| return the stone for nay reason. | | | | 8. Does the gemstone have a pleasing shape? |
| Always ask if the stone has a certificate or | | | | Does it have a nice "personality?" |
| diamond grading report and, if so, make sure it | | | | This will be determined by the cutting. Many |
| accompanies the stone; if you are taking the | | | | colored gems are cut in fancy shapes, often by |
| stone (diamond) on approval, ask for a copy of | | | | custom cutters. Fine cutting can enrich the color |
| the report. If there is no report or certificate, find | | | | and personality, and increase the cost. However, |
| out who determined the color and flaw grades; | | | | with colored gems brilliance and sparkle are less |
| make sure the seller puts that information on the | | | | important than the color itself. The most critical |
| bill of sale, and insist that the sale be contingent | | | | considerations must focus on color, first and |
| upon the gemstone's actually having the grades | | | | foremost. Sometimes a cutter must sacrifice |
| represented. | | | | brilliance in order to obtain the finest possible color. |
| Additional questions to help you make your | | | | But if the color is not rich enough or captivating |
| selection | | | | enough to compensate for less brilliance, ask if |
| Is it large enough? | | | | the jeweler has something that is cut better and |
| This is a valid question and one you should be | | | | exhibits a little more sparkle. Keep in mind, |
| honest with yourself about. If you think the | | | | however, that the more brilliant gemstone may |
| diamond is too small, you won't feel good about | | | | not have the precise color you like, and that when |
| wearing it. Remember that such other factors as | | | | buying a colored gem, color is the most crucial |
| clarity and color can be judged several grades | | | | factor. Unless you find the gemstone's personality |
| with little visible difference, and this might enable | | | | unappealing, don't sacrifice a beautiful color for a |
| you to get a larger diamond. And remember that | | | | stone with less appealing color just because it |
| the color and type of setting can also help you | | | | may sparkle more. Compare, decide based upon |
| achieve a larger look. | | | | what you like, and what you can afford. |
| Does this diamond have a good make? | | | | When considering a pastel colored gem, |
| Does this stone have good proportion? How do | | | | remember that if it is cut too shallow (flat), it can |
| its proportions compare to the "ideal?" | | | | lose its appeal quickly (but only temporarily) with a |
| Remember, much variance can exist and a | | | | slight build up of greasy dirt on the back; the color |
| diamond can still be beautiful, desirable gem even | | | | will fade and liveliness practically disappear. This |
| if it does not conform to the ideal. | | | | can be immediately remedied by a good cleaning. |
| Nonetheless, you won't want a diamond with poor | | | | 9. What are the colorless gemstones? |
| proportions, so if you have any question about | | | | In a piece of jewelry where a colored gemstone |
| the diamond's brilliance and liveliness; if it looks | | | | is mounted with colorless stones to accentuate or |
| lifeless or dull in spots, you should ask specifically | | | | highlight its color, ask, "what are the colorless |
| about the proportioning of the cut. In addition, you | | | | stones?" Do not assume they are diamonds. They |
| should ask if there are any cutting faults that | | | | may be diamonds, zircons, man-made diamond |
| might make the diamond more vulnerable to | | | | imitations such as CZ or YAG, or synthetic white |
| shipping or breaking, as for example, an | | | | spinel (spinel is frequently used in the Orient). |
| extremely thin girdle would. | | | | Special tips to remember when buying a colored |
| Has this diamond been clarity enhanced? | | | | gemstone |
| Be sure to ask whether or not the diamond has | | | | - When looking at unmounted gemstones, view |
| been laser treated, or fracture filled. If it is | | | | them through the side as well as from the top. |
| accompanied by a GIA diamond report, the | | | | Also, turn upside down on a flat white surface so |
| report will indicate lasering, if present. However, | | | | they are resting on the table facet and you can |
| GIA won't issue a report on a fracture filled | | | | look straight down through the stone on the table |
| diamond and some jewelers don't know how to | | | | facet and you can look straight down through the |
| detect them. If there is no GIA diamond report, | | | | stone from the back. Look for evenness of color |
| be sure to ask explicitly, and get a statement in | | | | versus color zoning; shades of lighter or darker |
| writing that the diamond is or is not clarity | | | | tones creating streaks or planes of differing color. |
| enhanced, whichever the case may be. Getting | | | | - Remember that color is the most important |
| this fact in writing may save you a big headache | | | | consideration. If the color is fine, the presence of |
| should you learn later that the diamond is | | | | flaws or inclusions doesn't detract from the |
| enhanced. | | | | gemstone's value as significantly as with diamonds. |
| Does this diamond show any fluorescence? | | | | If the overall color or beauty deter is not |
| If a diamond fluoresces blue when viewed in | | | | seriously affected, the presence of flaws should |
| daylight or under daylight type fluorescent light, it | | | | not deter a purchase. But, conversely, flawless |
| will appear whiter than it really is. This can be | | | | gemstones may bring a disproportionately higher |
| desirable quality so long as the diamond has not | | | | price per carat due to their rarity, an larger sizes |
| been graded or classified incorrectly. A diamond | | | | will also command higher prices. In pastel colored |
| may also fluoresce yellow, which means that in | | | | gems, or gemstones with less fine color, clarity |
| certain light its color could appear worse than it | | | | may be more important. |
| actually is. If the diamond has a diamond grading | | | | - Be sure to check the gemstone's color in |
| report, any fluorescence will be indicated there. If | | | | several different types of light; a spotlight, |
| there is no report, and if the jeweler can't tell you | | | | sunlight, or fluorescent or lamplight, before making |
| whether or not the diamond exhibits fluorescence, | | | | any decision. Many gemstones change color; some |
| the diamond's color grade may be incorrect. | | | | just slightly, others dramatically, depending upon |
| Special tips when buying a diamond | | | | the light in which they are viewed. Be sure that |
| Ask the jeweler to clean the diamond | | | | the gemstone is a pleasing color in the type of |
| Don't hesitate to ask to have the diamond | | | | light in which you expect to be wearing it most. |
| cleaned before you examine it. Cleaning will | | | | If considering a gemstone with rich, deep color; |
| remove dirt, grease, or indelible purple ink. Cleaning | | | | especially if it is for special occasions and likely to |
| is best done by steaming or in an ultrasonic | | | | be worn mostly at night, be sure it doesn't turn |
| cleaner. Cleaning also helps to ensure that you'll | | | | black in evening light. |
| see the full beauty of the diamond; diamond can | | | | - Remember to give special attention to |
| become very dirty just from customers handling | | | | wear-ability. If you are considering one of the |
| them, and, as a result, look less brilliant and | | | | more fragile gemstones, think about how the |
| sparkling than they really are. | | | | piece will be worn, where, and how frequently. |
| View the diamond against a dead white | | | | Also, pay special attention to the setting and |
| background | | | | whether the gemstone is mounted in a way that |
| When looking at unmounted diamonds, look at | | | | will add protection, or allow unnecessary, risky |
| them only against a dead-white background such | | | | exposure to hazards. |
| as white blotter paper or a white business card, | | | | Get the facts on the the bill of sale |
| or on a grading trough. Examine the stone against | | | | If a colored gemstone is over one carat and |
| the white background so that you are looking at it | | | | exceptionally fine and expensive, make the sale |
| through the side, not down through the table. Tilt | | | | contingent on verification of the facts by a |
| the diamond toward a good light source; daylight | | | | qualified gemologist, appraiser, or gem testing lab |
| fluorescent lamp is the best. If the diamond | | | | such as GIA or American Gemological Laboratory |
| shows any yellow body tint when viewed through | | | | (AGL). |
| the girdle, if it is not as colorless as an ice cube, | | | | Always make sure that any item you purchase is |
| then the diamond is not "white" or "colorless." | | | | clearly described in the bill of sale exactly as |
| Get the facts on a bill of sale | | | | represented to you by the salesperson or |
| Ask that all the facts concerning the diamond be | | | | jeweler. For diamonds, be sure each of the 4 Cs |
| put on the bill of sale. These include the carat | | | | is described in writing. For colored gems, essential |
| weight, the color and flaw grades, the cut, and | | | | information also includes the following: |
| the dimensions. Also, be sure you obtain the | | | | - The identity of the stone or stones and |
| report on any "certificated" diamond, as diamonds | | | | whether or not they are genuine or synthetic, and |
| accompanied by laboratory reports are | | | | not in any way a composite (Doublet, triplet). |
| sometimes called. | | | | - A statement that the color is natural, if it has |
| Verify facts a with a gemologist | | | | been so represented; or, in the case of sapphire, |
| If a diamond is one carat or larger and not | | | | a statement that the stone either is surface |
| accompanied by a respected laboratory report, | | | | diffused, or that it is not surface diffused. |
| make the sale contingent on verification of facts | | | | - A statement describing the overall color (hue, |
| by a qualified gemologist, gem testing lab, or the | | | | tone, intensity). |
| GIA. While the GIA will not estimate dollar value, it | | | | - A statement describing the overall flaw picture. |
| will verify color, flaw, grade, make, fluorescence, | | | | This is not always necessary with colored |
| weight, and other physical characteristics. | | | | gemstones. In the case of a flawless or nearly |
| Weight the facts | | | | flawless gemstone it is wise to note the excellent |
| Decide what is important to you and then weigh | | | | clarity. In addition, note any unusual flaw that |
| the facts. Most people think color and make are | | | | might prove useful for for identification. |
| the most important considerations when buying a | | | | - A statement describing the cut or make. This is |
| diamond, but if you want a larger diamond, you | | | | not always necessary, but may be useful if the |
| may have to come down several grades in color, | | | | gemstone specially well cut, or an unusual or |
| or choose a slightly spread stone, or select one of | | | | fancy cut. |
| the new shapes that look much larger than | | | | - The carat weight of the main gemstone or |
| traditional cuts. The most important thing is to | | | | gemstones plus total weight if there is a |
| know what you are getting, and get what you | | | | combination of main and smaller gemstones. |
| pay for. | | | | - If the gemstone is to be taken on approval, |
| What to ask when buying a colored gemstone | | | | make sure that the exact dimensions of the |
| As with diamonds, it's very important to ask the | | | | gemstone are included, as well as any other |
| right questions to help you understand the | | | | identification characteristics. The terms and period |
| differences in gems you may be considering. | | | | of approval should also be clearly stated. |
| Asking the following questions should help you to | | | | Other information that should be included for |
| gain a greater understanding of the differences, | | | | jewelry |
| determine what's right for you, and have greater | | | | - If the piece is being represented as being made |
| confidence in your decision. | | | | by a famous designer or house (Van Cleef and |
| 1. Is this a genuine, natural gemstone, or a | | | | Arpels, Tiffany, Caldwell, Cartier, etc.) and the |
| synthetic? | | | | price reflects this, the name of the designer or |
| Synthetic stones are genuine, but not natural. | | | | jewelry firm should be stated on the bill of sale. |
| 2. Is the color natural? | | | | - If the piece is represented as antique |
| Most colored gemstones are routinely color | | | | (technically, an antique must be at least a hundred |
| enhanced. However, gemstones such as lapis | | | | years old) or as a "period" piece from a popular, |
| should not be, and you must protect yourself | | | | collectible period like Art Deco, Art Nouveau, |
| from buying dyed material that will not retain its | | | | Edwardian (especially if made by a premier artisan |
| color permanently. | | | | of the period), this information should be stated |
| Be especially cautious when buying any blue | | | | on the bill of sale, with the approximate age or |
| sapphire; make sure you ask whether or not the | | | | date of manufacture, and a statement describing |
| gemstone has been checked for diffusion | | | | "condition." |
| treatment. Today, with diffused sapphire being | | | | - If made by hand, or custom designed, this |
| found mixed in parcels of natural sapphires and | | | | should be indicated on the bill of sale. |
| unknowingly set into jewelry, it's possible that one | | | | - If the piece is to be taken on approval, make |
| may be sold inadvertently. | | | | sure millimeter dimensions; top to bottom, as well |
| 3. Clarify what the name means. | | | | as a full description of the piece. Also, check that |
| Be particularly careful of misleading names. when | | | | a time period is indicated, such as "two days," and |
| a gemstone is described with any qualifier such as | | | | before you sign anything, be sure that you are |
| Rio Topaz (which is not topaz), ask specifically | | | | signing an approval form and not a binding |
| whether or not the gemstone is genuine. Ask | | | | contract for its purchase. |