Buying Quality Jewelry - Part 1 - Gemstones

Though none of us will ever see a treasure chestFewer flaws mean a more valuable stone.
full of emeralds, rubies and sapphires outside aInclusions can also help determine if a gemstone
pirate movie, most of us will own gemstonehas been treated. As with other factors, clarity is
jewelry. It is traditional, but more importantly,related to type--a flawless emerald would be
gemstones are beautiful. When worn properly,priceless while flawless aquamarines are fairly
they are a statement about the fashion sensecommon. 'Flawless' means a trained jeweler sees
and financial security of the wearer. Since theirno inclusions when examining a stone under 10x
value remains fairly stable, gems are an excellentmagnification.
way to pass wealth and memories to futureSemi-precious and Artificial Gems
generations.Semi-precious:
There's no scientific definition for gem or jewel;Diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires have
these are marketing concepts. Minerals arealways been the most popular gems, so some
formed by geological processes continuouslyjewelers took to calling other gemstones
happening deep inside planet Earth. When people'semi-precious'. This was a mistake and it is a
excavate certain minerals and cut them intodeceptive term; these jewels are not
specific shapes, they become gems. When placed'half-precious.' In fact, a prime amethyst or agate
in a decorative setting for display, they becomecan be much pricier than medium-grade rubies,
jewels.emeralds or sapphires.
While these natural processes create anLikewise, "not all that glitters is gold" wrote J. R. R.
astonishing variety of beautiful gemstones, fewTolkien; and not all that sparkles is a gem.
can become jewels in their natural state. JewelersImitations of various qualities and costs are
cut and polish stones and use otheravailable and consumers should not pay for what
enhancements to bring out their color and brilliancethey are not getting. By law, these cannot be sold
or stabilize their chemical composition, makingwithout clear identification that they are not
more high-quality gems available to the public. Asnatural. The FTC defines two types of non-natural
much as 80 percent of all gemstones are treatedgemstones:
in some way before reaching the retailer.Lab-created:
Gemstone quality"Lab created...has the same chemical, physical and
Like diamonds, are classified and valued by theoptical properties of the natural ruby, emerald, or
"Four Cs":diamond, etc." Minerals have a specific composition
Color:which can be duplicated, so lab-created gems are
The most important factor in evaluatingreal gems in every sense.
gemstones, gems with the brightest, most vividSimulant:
colors usually command the highest price. Specific"Simulant (or imitation) merely resembles the
gemstones only occur in certain color ranges,natural stone." Simulants are not the same type
based on their chemistry. However, whenof rock, in spite of their appearance.
evaluating color, judge carefully: Don't call a peridotFor example, a diamond is pure carbon. A
a weak green just because it isn't the samelab-created diamond is also pure carbon and is as
green as an emerald. Sapphires and rubies are thehard as a diamond because it is a diamond. A
same mineral, corundum; rubies are redcubic zirconia (or CZ) is zirconium oxide. Quality
corundum, all other colors are called sapphires.CZs look so diamond-like that only an experienced
Carat:jeweler can tell the difference (in the stone, that
Heavier gems are more rare; so more expensiveis, anyone can tell a diamond from a CZ by
than smaller ones. Rarity of large stones alsolooking at the price tag). Most natural stones have
depends on the type--the world's largest cut rubyinclusions, while lab-created and simulant gems
is just over 23ct, while the largest cut topaz ishave few, or none. These faux treasures are
just under 23,000ct! Carat measures the stone'smore affordable than natural stones, they look
weight, but the crystal structural and otherreal and they're perfectly acceptable wear in any
chemical properties can affect density, meaningjewelry at any time.
two stones of the same size may have slightlyGemstone symbolism
different weights. For this reason, coloredAncient mythologies considered some gemstones
gemstones are often listed by size. (By the way,to be magical; wearing the stones associated with
'carat' measures gem weight; 'karat' measuresone's birth was a way to insure good luck and
gold's purity, a 'caret' is a punctuation mark and abirthstones remain popular gifts. Not to be
'carrot' is a vegetable.)outdone by the mythologists, gem sellers came
Cut:up with an anniversary gemstone list. Perhaps
Determining the final beauty of a stone meansthey thought you didn't already have enough
picking precise angles and proportions. Diamondexcuses to buy gemstone jewelry for that special
cutting focuses on maximizing brilliance (reflectedsomeone. And, while they probably weren't
light), while gemstone cutting is about maximizingthinking about jewelry, most US states have
color. There are many traditional cuts--cabochon,designated official state gemstones. If your wife
emerald, heart, marquise, oval, pear, princess,is Utah-born, consider a topaz ring for her. If your
round brilliant, square--and a quality cut can be thehusband is a native New Yorker, a set of garnet
difference between a good stone and acuff-links might remind him of home.
breath-taking stone.Regardless of when or why you choose
Clarity:gemstone jewelry, get what you pay for by
Flaws (called 'inclusions') exist in all naturalknowing what to look for.
stones--part of the proof of their natural origin.