| ionn. Filigree /filligree/:From the Latin | | | | methods of faceting gems the emphasis moved |
| Filum’, meaning Thread’, and | | | | once more from precious metals to gemstones, |
| Granum’ meaning Seed’. | | | | and the diamond became the preferred item for |
| Filigree is the art of curling, twisting and plaiting | | | | jewelry. The 18th Century brought with it |
| fine pliable threads of precious metals, and uniting | | | | industrial development and mass production. |
| them at their points of contact by means of gold | | | | Cheaper materials were utilized, in addition to gold |
| or Silver solder. | | | | and semi-precious gemstones, including base-metal |
| Introduction | | | | alloys, paste to make imitation gemstones, steel |
| Perfected over millennia, incorporating the ancient | | | | and cast iron. With these cheaper methods of |
| techniques and styles of vanished civilizations, | | | | production jewelry techniques changed their |
| Filigree is without a doubt one of the oldest and | | | | emphasis from the artisans to less skilled |
| most beautiful art forms known to man. | | | | mechanical processes of stamping and cutting out |
| Unlike the mass of jewelry produced today | | | | patterns and settings. It was during the end of |
| Filigree jewelry is totally handcrafted, calling for | | | | the 19th Century that Peter Carl Faberge, jeweler |
| hours of concentration on the part of its maker. | | | | to the Russian Tsars, reintroduced an exacting |
| The knowledge behind Filigree’s meticulous | | | | craftsmanship into jewelry design. Similar to the |
| creation, passed down from generation to | | | | artisan jewelers of the Renaissance, Faberge |
| generation, remains a closely guarded secret kept | | | | specialized in the contrast of colors and materials, |
| in the hands of lapidary masters stretching from | | | | and his most original designs are those that |
| the islands of the Mediterranean sea to the | | | | combine gold Filigree, and colored gems such as |
| shores of East India. | | | | alexandrite named after the Tsar Alexander on |
| The Celts And Filigree | | | | his birthday in 1830. |
| After a long absence, Filigree reestablished itself in | | | | The 19th Century And Filigree |
| northern Europe with the Saxons, Britons and | | | | By the late 19th Century, a counter-culture |
| Celts who were from an early period extremely | | | | movement in the decorative arts challenged the |
| skilful in several kinds of jewelry metalwork. In | | | | austerity of Victorian society. Art Nouveau burst |
| fact, the Celtic jewelry perfected between the | | | | upon Europe and America with a romantic glory |
| 10th and 11th Centuries in Ireland displays more | | | | of swirling dainty lines. Figures of girls with dreamy |
| thought in its design and intricate patterns than | | | | expressions and swirling hair, dragonflies and |
| any other period in Filigree’s history. Two | | | | peacocks with iridescent colors and stylized floral |
| examples are the infamous Tara brooch, a ring | | | | themes dominated jewelry. Filigree, enameling and |
| fastener with a pin for piercing and holding clothing | | | | Pliqué A Jour, the pulling of enamel through wire |
| in place, and the stunning two-handled chalice | | | | to give it a stained glass look, were used and |
| called the Ardagh cup. Irish Filigree is designed in | | | | established jewelers like Louis Comfort Tiffany |
| such a way that one thread can be traced | | | | although continuing to use diamonds and pearls |
| through the entirety of a network of complex | | | | reintroduced classical gemstones like opals and |
| coils and knots, the intricate threads appear and | | | | moonstones. |
| disappear without breaking continuity or balance, | | | | The Edwardian Epoch & Filigree |
| finishing by being incorporated into the head or tail | | | | After the death of Queen Victoria her son, |
| of a serpent or monster. | | | | Edward VII, became king of England. In |
| The Renaissance & Filigree | | | | comparison to the austerity of Victorian England |
| The 15th and 16th Centuries marked the | | | | Edward’s reign marked a joyous return to |
| dispersion of the somber Middle Ages, and the | | | | elegance in styling, clothing and jewelry. Edwardian |
| rise of the Italian Renaissance’, meaning | | | | jewelry coincided with the Art Nouveau |
| Rebirth’, expressing for the first time | | | | movement, and the delicate Filigree work that |
| the values of the modern world. Artists and | | | | could now be fashioned echoed the laces and |
| artisans of this period found their inspiration in the | | | | feathers worn by Edwardian ladies of the period. |
| revival of ancient Greece and Rome, and jewelry | | | | Diamonds and pearls were worn in profusion, |
| became once again an integral part of dress. | | | | either alone or with colored gemstones. Because |
| Solemn religious subjects were gradually replaced | | | | of the metal strength of platinum, yellow gold was |
| by classical and naturalistic themes and Filigree and | | | | replaced as the metal of choice for jewelry. Silver |
| enameled jewelry combined with faceted | | | | and white gold, were used for the first time in |
| gemstones were for the first time united in | | | | Filigree and it was everywhere from brooches, |
| sculptured pendants, brooches, necklaces and | | | | bracelets, earrings, tiaras and beautiful delicate and |
| chains. | | | | lacy diamond rings, and with king Edwards love of |
| The 17th To 18th Centuries And Filigree | | | | elegance men's jewelry came into its own. |
| However, in the 17th Century due to refined | | | | |