| Celebrating a Special Occasion with Jewelry | | | | Even more important, careless cutting, or cutting |
| Jewelry and gems The Buying Guide | | | | to get the largest possible stone from the rough, |
| One of the most important things to learn is how | | | | can sometimes result in faults that may make a |
| to look at a gem, even if you won't see all that a | | | | stone more fragile and vulnerable to breakage. |
| gemologist will. Let's begin by making sure you | | | | Such stones should sell for much less, although |
| understand the terms you will be hearing and | | | | the fault may not be visible without careful |
| using to describe what you want, especially terms | | | | examination by an expert. |
| pertaining to the stone's "cut" and the names for | | | | How to know if a stone is well cut. |
| the parts of a cut stone. | | | | The precision of the cutting dramatically affects |
| It's important to be familiar with a few general | | | | the beauty and value of any stone. This is |
| terms that are commonly used when referring to | | | | especially true in faceted stones, those on which a |
| faceted stones. The parts of a stone can vary in | | | | series of tiny flat planes (facets or faces) have |
| proportion and thus affect its brilliance, beauty, | | | | been cut and polished. (Non-faceted stones are |
| and desirability. | | | | called cabochons.) By following some general |
| - Girdle | | | | guidelines and tips for looking at the faceted |
| The girdle is the edge or border of the stone that | | | | gemstones, you can better determine both the |
| forms its perimeter; it is the edge formed where | | | | quality of the stone and quality of the cut. |
| the top portion of the stone meets the bottom | | | | The first thing to keep in mind is that any stone, |
| portion, its "dividing line." This is the part usually | | | | if basic material is good quality, the way it is cut |
| grasped by the prongs of a setting. | | | | will make the difference between a dull, lifeless |
| - Crown | | | | stone and a beautiful, brilliant one. In diamonds, the |
| The crown is also called the top of the stone. This | | | | cutting and proportioning are greatest influence on |
| is simply the upper portion of the stone, the part | | | | the stone's brilliance and fire. In colored gems, the |
| above the girdle. | | | | perfection of the cut is not as important as it is |
| - Pavilion | | | | with diamonds, but proportioning remains critical |
| The pavilion is the bottom portion of the stone, | | | | because it will significantly affect the depth of |
| the part from the girdle to the "point" at the | | | | color as well as the stone's brilliance and liveliness. |
| bottom. | | | | Look at the stone face up, through the top |
| - Culet | | | | (table). This is the most critical area to view, since |
| The culet is the lowest part or point of the stone. | | | | this is the one most often noticed. If looking at a |
| It may be missing in some stones, which can | | | | diamond, does it seem to sparkle and dance |
| indicate damage, or, particularly with colored | | | | across the whole stone, or are there dead spots? |
| stones, it may not be part of the original cut. | | | | In a colored gem, does the color look good from |
| - Table | | | | this direction? Is the table centered and |
| The table is the flat top of the stone and is the | | | | symmetrical? |
| stone's largest facet, often called the face. The | | | | A quick way to check the symmetry of a round |
| term table spread is used to describe the width | | | | diamond is to look at the table edges. The lines |
| of the table facet, often expressed as a | | | | should be straight, regular, and parallel to one |
| percentage of total width of the stone. | | | | another. The table edges should form a regular |
| The Cut of the Stone | | | | octagon, with the edges meeting in sharp points. |
| The most important, and least understood, factor | | | | If the lines of the table are wavy, the overall |
| which must be evaluated when considering any | | | | symmetry is not good, and the symmetry of the |
| gem is cutting. When we talk about cut, we are | | | | adjoining facets will also be affected. |
| not referring to the shape, but to the care and | | | | Next, look at the stone from the side. Note the |
| precision used in creating a finished gem from the | | | | proportion of the stone both above and below |
| rough. There are many popular shapes for | | | | the girdle. |
| gemstones. Each shape affects the overall look of | | | | The stone's proportion, whether it is too thin or |
| the stone, but if the stone is cut well its brilliance | | | | too thick, will have a marked affect on its overall |
| and value endures no matter what shape it is. For | | | | beauty. With colored stones, the relative terms of |
| the average consumer, choosing a shape is simply | | | | thickness vary greatly due to the inherent optical |
| a matter of personal taste. Some of the most | | | | properties of different gems. As a general guide |
| popular shapes are listed below: | | | | when considering colored stones, keep in mind |
| - Round Shape | | | | these three points: |
| - Princess Shape | | | | 1. If the stone appears lively and exhibits an |
| - Trilliant Shape | | | | appealing color when viewed through the table, no |
| - Pear Shape | | | | matter how the proportion appears (thick or thin), |
| - Marquise Shape | | | | it is usually correct and acceptable proportioning |
| - Oval Shape | | | | for that particular stone. |
| - Emerald Shape | | | | 2. The depth of color (tone) will become darker s |
| - Radiant Shape | | | | the stone is cut thicker, particularly if the bottom |
| - Heart Shape | | | | portion (pavilion) is deep and broad. |
| - Baguette Shape | | | | 3. A stone's depth of color will become lighter as |
| - Tapered Baguette Shape | | | | the stone is cut thinner. This is especially |
| - Asscher Shape | | | | important when considering a pastel colored stone. |
| - Cushion Shape | | | | A pastel stone should always have fairly deep |
| Make makes a big difference | | | | proportioning. |
| The Shape of the stone may affect the | | | | The effects of cut and proportioning will be |
| personality it displays, but it is the overall cutting | | | | discussed in greater detail in future articles, as the |
| that releases its full beauty. A term used by | | | | factors affecting cut and proportioning are |
| professionals to describe the overall quality of the | | | | somewhat different for diamonds and colored |
| cutting is "make". Having a "good make" will sell | | | | gems. It is an important first step, however, to |
| for much more than one with a "fair make." The | | | | become aware of general views and begin to |
| difference in price between a well-cut and poorly | | | | have a feeling about what looks "right. |
| cut diamond can be as much as 50%, or more. | | | | |