| Colorful choices in colored Gemstones | | | | November, is one of nature's most wonderful and |
| Translucent to opaque varieties | | | | least known families. The true topaz is rarely seen |
| - Rhodochrosite | | | | in jewelry stores. Unfortunately, most people |
| Rhodochrosite is a new comer to the jewelry | | | | know only the quartz (citrine) topaz, or glass, and |
| business. While sought by rock hounds for many | | | | in the past almost any yellow gemstone was |
| years and a favorite of beginning lapidaries, | | | | called topaz. A very beautiful and versatile |
| rhodochrosite appeared only occasionally outside | | | | gemstone, topaz is a hard brilliant stone with a |
| of rock and mineral shows frequented by | | | | fine color range, and it is much rarer and much |
| hobbyists. A member of the carbonate mineral | | | | more expensive than gemstones commonly sold |
| group, rhodochrosite is a relatively soft stone | | | | as topaz. It is also heavier than its imitators. |
| occurring in both a rare transparent and a more | | | | Topaz occurs not only in the transparent yellow, |
| common non-translucent variety. For practical | | | | yellow brown, orangy brown, and pinky brown |
| purposes, we will discuss the latter, more readily | | | | colors most popularly associated with it, but also in |
| available form. | | | | a very light to medium red now found naturally in |
| A lovely red to almost white color, often with | | | | fair supply, although many are produced through |
| agate like curved lines creating a design in | | | | heat treatment. It is also found in a very light to |
| contrasting shades of red or pink, rhodochrosite | | | | medium deep blue, also often the result of |
| may occasionally occur in an orangy tone, but this | | | | treatment, although it does occur naturally on a |
| is is poorer quality material. The finest color is a | | | | fairly wide scale. Other topaz shades include very |
| medium to deep rose, preferably with curved | | | | light green, light greenish yellow, violet, and |
| banding. It has long been popular for certain | | | | colorless. |
| ornamental objects (spheres, boxes, eggs) but | | | | Blue topaz has become very popular in recent |
| only recently for jewelry. Today, necklaces using | | | | years, most of it treated; unfortunately, there is |
| rhodochrosite beads alternating with other | | | | no way yet to determine which have been |
| gemstones or gold beads are becoming | | | | treated and which are natural. The blue form |
| particularly popular. It is soft, however, and some | | | | closely resembles the finest aquamarine, which is |
| caution should be used in wearing to avoid | | | | very expensive today, and offers a very |
| unnecessary abuse. | | | | attractive, and much more affordable, alternative |
| - Scapplite | | | | to it. Some of the fine, deeper blue treated |
| Scapplite is an interesting gem that is beginning to | | | | topazes have been found to be radioactive and, |
| appear in more jewelry as it becomes more | | | | according to the Nuclear Regulatory Commission, |
| available. Rediscover in Brazil after a forty years | | | | may be injurious to the wearer. In the United |
| hiatus and also recently discovered in Kenya, | | | | States all blue topaz must be tested for radiation |
| scapolite is a nice, transparent, fairly durable | | | | levels; the GIA now provides this service to the |
| gemstone occurring in a range of colors from | | | | jewelry trade. However, be very careful when |
| colorless to yellow, light red, orange to greenish to | | | | buying blue topaz outside the United States. If |
| bluish gray, violet, and violet blue. The orange, light | | | | you do, you may be wise to have it tested when |
| red, and whitish specimens may also occur as | | | | you get home. |
| semitransparent stones, which may show a cat's | | | | There are many misleading names to suggest |
| eye effect (chatoyancy) when cut into | | | | that a stone is topaz when it is not, for example, |
| cabochons. | | | | "Rio topaz," "Madeira topaz," "Spanish topaz," and |
| The most likely to appear in jewelry are the | | | | "Palmeira topaz." They are types of citrine |
| violets and yellows, and possibly orange cat's eye. | | | | (quartz) and should be represented as such. |
| They might easily be mistaken for yellow beryl or | | | | The true topaz family offers a variety of color |
| certain quartz minerals like amethyst or citrine. | | | | options in lovely, clear, brilliant, and durable |
| Consumers and sellers will have to wait and see | | | | gemstones. This family should become more |
| what trends evolve around this gemstone, as its | | | | important in the years ahead. |
| availability will determine future use and cost. | | | | - Tourmaline |
| - Serpentine | | | | Tourmaline is a gem of modern times, but |
| Serpentine derives its name from its similarity to | | | | nonetheless has found its way to the list of |
| the green, speckled skin of the serpent. Amulets | | | | birthstones, becoming an "alternate birthstone" for |
| of serpentine were worn for protection from | | | | October. Perhaps this honor result from |
| serpent bites, stings of poisonous reptiles, and | | | | tourmaline's versatility and broad color range. Or |
| poison in general. A king was reputed to have | | | | perhaps from the fact that red and green |
| insisted that his chalice be made of serpentine, as | | | | tourmaline, in which red and green occur side by |
| it was believed that a poisoned drink were put | | | | side in the same gemstone, is reminiscent of |
| into a serpentine vessel, the vessel would sweat | | | | turning of October leaves. |
| on the outside. The effectiveness of medicine | | | | Whatever the case, tourmaline is one of the |
| was increased when drunk from a serpentine | | | | most versatile of gem families. It is available in |
| vessel. | | | | every color, in every tone, from deep to pastel |
| Serpentine is often used as a jade substitute. It is | | | | and even with two or more colors appearing in |
| a translucent to semi-translucent stone occurring | | | | the same stone, side by side. There are bicolor |
| in light to dark yellowish green to greenish yellow. | | | | tourmaline (half red and the other half green, for |
| One variety is used for decorative wall facings | | | | example) and tricolor (one-third blue, one-third |
| and table counter surfaces, but some of the | | | | green, and one-third yet another color). The |
| more attractive green varieties so closely | | | | fascinating "watermelon" tourmaline looks like the |
| resemble jadeite or nephrite jade that they are | | | | inside of a watermelon; red in the center |
| used in carvings and jewelry, and are often | | | | surrounded by green "rind." Tourmaline can also be |
| misrepresented as jade. Common serpentine is | | | | found in a cat's eye variety. |
| also sometimes dyed a jade like color. One lovely | | | | One of the most exciting gemological discoveries |
| green variety, williamsite, which is a very pleasing | | | | of this century was the discovery of a unique |
| deep green, often with small black flecks within, is | | | | variety of tourmaline in Paraiba, Brazil. These |
| often sold as "Pennsylvania Jade." It is pretty, but | | | | particular beauties, referred to as "Paraiba" or |
| it is not jade. Another variety of serpentine, | | | | "Hetorita" after the man who discovered them, |
| bowenite, is also sold today as "Korean jade" or | | | | have colors so intense and come in such a wide |
| "new jade." Again, it is pretty but nit jade. | | | | range of green, blue, and lilac shades that they |
| Serpentine is softer than jade; less durable, and | | | | are referred to as neon tourmalines. |
| much more common, which its price should | | | | Unfortunately, demand has been unprecedented |
| reflect. | | | | for these particular tourmalines, and supply has |
| It is a lovely gemstone in its own right, and | | | | dwindled. The result is that many of the finest |
| makes a nice alternative to jade. While it has been | | | | Paraibas are very expensive and some rival the |
| around for a long time (too often, however, | | | | finest sapphires in price. For anyone who loves |
| represented as jade), we are just beginning to | | | | these colors, they are worth seeing just for their |
| see this stone used frequently in necklaces and | | | | own sake. If jewelers in your area don't have |
| other fine jewelry under its own name. | | | | these gemstones, they can contact the American |
| - Sodalite | | | | Gem Trade Association in Dallas, Texas, regarding |
| This gemstone has already been discussed under | | | | where to obtain them. |
| lapis. Sodalite is a dark blue semitransparent to | | | | It is indeed surprising that most people know of |
| semi-translucent stone used frequently as a | | | | tourmaline simply as a common "green" |
| substitute for the rarer, more expensive lapis. | | | | gemstone. Nothing could be more misleading. |
| While it may have some white veining, it does not | | | | Today, we are finally beginning to see other lovely |
| have the golden or silver flecks that are | | | | varieties of this fascinating gem in the jewelry |
| characteristics of lapis. If you do not see these | | | | market. In addition to the exciting new "Paraiba," |
| shiny flecks, suspect that the stone is probably | | | | other popular varieties include: |
| sodalite. | | | | 1) Chrome: A particularly rare green hue. |
| - Spinel | | | | 2) Indicolite: Deep indigo blue, usually with a green |
| Spinel is one of the loveliest of the gems but | | | | undertone. |
| hasn't yet been given due credit and respect. It is | | | | 3) Rubellite: Deep pink to red, as in ruby. |
| usually compared to sapphire or ruby, rather than | | | | Tourmaline is a fairly hard, durable, brilliant, and |
| being recognized for its own intrinsic beauty and | | | | very wearable gemstone with a wide choice of |
| value. There is also a common belief that spinel | | | | colors. It is also still available in large sizes. It is a |
| (and similarly zircon) is synthetic rather than | | | | gemstone without question will play a more and |
| natural, when in fact it is one of the nature's most | | | | more important role in jewelry in the years ahead. |
| beautiful products. This misconception probably | | | | - Turquoise |
| arose because synthetic spinel is seen frequently | | | | Turquoise birthstone for December, and ranking |
| on the market whereas genuine spinel is not often | | | | highest among all the opaque stones, turquoise; |
| seen. | | | | the "Turkish gemstone," is highly prized |
| Spinel occurs in red orange (flame spinel), light to | | | | throughout Asia Africa, not only for its particular |
| dark orangy red, light to dark slightly grayish blue, | | | | hue of blue (a beautiful robin's egg or sky blue) |
| greenish blue, grayish green, and dark to light | | | | but more important for its supposed prophylactic |
| purple to violet. It also occurs in yellow and in an | | | | and therapeutic qualities. The Arabs consider it a |
| opaque variety; black. When compared to the blue | | | | lucky stone and have great confidence in its |
| of sapphire or red of ruby the color is usually | | | | benevolent action. Used in rings, earrings, |
| considered less intense (although some red spinel | | | | necklaces, head ornaments, and amulets, it |
| can look very much like some ruby on the | | | | protects the wearer from poison, reptile bites, |
| market), yet its brilliance can be greater. If you | | | | eye diseases, and the evil eye. It was also |
| appreciate these spinel colors for themselves, | | | | believed capable of warning of impending death by |
| they are quite pleasing. The most popular are red | | | | changing color. Also, the drinking of water in which |
| (usually a more orange red than ruby red) and | | | | turquoise has been dipped or washed was |
| blue (sometimes resembling a strong | | | | believed to cure bladder ailments. Buddhists revere |
| Bromo-Seltzer-bottle blue). | | | | the turquoise because it is associated with a |
| Spinel may be confused with or misrepresented | | | | legend in which a turquoise enabled Buddha to |
| as one of many gemstones; ruby, sapphire, | | | | destroy a monster. Even today it is considered a |
| zircon, amethyst, garnet, synthetic ruby and | | | | symbol of courage, success, and love. It has also |
| sapphire or synthetic spinel, as well as glass. The | | | | long been associated with American Indian jewelry |
| synthetic is often used to make composite | | | | and art. |
| stones such as doublets. Spinel is a fairly hard, | | | | Turquoise is an opaque, light to dark blue or blue |
| fairly durable gemstone, possessing a nice | | | | green stone. The finest color is an intense blue, |
| brilliance, and still a good value. | | | | with poorer qualities tending toward yellowish |
| This gemstone is becoming more and more | | | | green. The famous Persian turquoise, which can |
| popular, and may, therefore, become more | | | | be very intense and pleasing blue, is considered a |
| expensive if current trends continue. | | | | very rare and valuable gem. |
| - Spodumene (Kunzite and Hiddenite) | | | | All turquoises are susceptible to aging an may turn |
| Spodumene is another gem relatively new to | | | | greenish or possibly darker with gem. Also, care |
| widespread jewelry use. The most popular | | | | must be taken when wearing, both to avoid |
| varieties are kunzite and hiddenite. | | | | contact with soap, grease, or other materials that |
| Kunzite is a very lovely brilliant gemstone | | | | might discolor it, and to protect it from abuse, |
| occurring in delicate lilac, pinkish, or violet shades. | | | | since turquoise scratches easily. |
| Its color can fade in strong light, and so it has | | | | But exercise caution when buying turquoise. This |
| become known as an "evening" gemstone. Also, | | | | is a frequently simulated gem. Very fine glass |
| while basically hard, it is nonetheless brittle and can | | | | imitations are produced that are difficult to |
| break easily if it receives a sharp blow from | | | | distinguish from genuine. Very fine adulterated |
| certain directions. It is not recommended for rings | | | | stones, and reconstructed stones (from turquoise |
| for this reason unless set in a protective | | | | powder bonded in plastic) saturate the |
| mounting. But it is a lovely gem, whose low cost | | | | marketplace, as does synthetic turquoise. There |
| makes it attractive in large sizes, and an excellent | | | | are techniques to quickly distinguish these |
| choice for lovely, dramatic jewelry design. | | | | imitations or simulations, so, if in doubt, check it |
| Hiddenite is rarer. Light green or yellow green | | | | out (and get a complete description on the bill of |
| varieties are available, but the emerald green | | | | sale; "genuine, natural turquoise"). |
| varieties are scarce. As with kunzite, it is hard but | | | | - Zircon |
| brittle, so care must be exercised in wear. | | | | Zircon is known to the ancients as "hyacinth," this |
| Spodumene also occurs in many other shades of | | | | gem had many powers, especially for men. While |
| colors, all pale but very clear and brilliant. Only blue | | | | it was known to assist women in childbirth, for |
| is currently missing but who knows what may | | | | men it kept evil spirits and drams away, gave |
| yet be discovered in some part of the world? | | | | protection against "fascination" and lightning, |
| Spodumene is still fairly inexpensive and is an | | | | strengthened their bodies, fortified their hearts, |
| excellent choice for contemporary jewelry design. | | | | restored appetite, suppressed fat, produced sleep, |
| Be careful, however, as it can be confused with | | | | and banished grief and sadness form the mind. |
| and sold for more expensive topaz, tourmaline, | | | | Zircons are very brilliant transparent gemstones |
| spinel, or beryl. Also, synthetic corundum or spinel | | | | available in several lovely colors. Unfortunately, |
| can be mistaken for this gem. | | | | many consumers suffer from a strange |
| - Sugilite | | | | misconception that zircon is a synthetic or |
| Sugilite named for the Japanese petrologist who | | | | man-made gemstone rather than a lovely natural |
| discovered it, Ken-ichi Sugi, sugilite first appeared | | | | creation. Perhaps this belief is based on the fact |
| on jewelry scene in the late 1970s, sold as Royal | | | | that they are frequently color treated, as in the |
| Azel and Royal Lavulite. Best known today as | | | | blue zircons so often seen. Zircons also occur |
| sugilite, its lovely, deep rich purple to purple red | | | | naturally in yellow, brown, orange, and red. |
| color is unique. An opaque gem, it is usually cut in | | | | Many might mistake the colorless zircon foe |
| cabochon or beads, although it is also popular for | | | | diamond because of its strong brilliance, which |
| inlay work (intarsia) by top artisans. Sugilite | | | | coupled with its very low cost, makes colorless |
| belongs to the manganese family and most | | | | zircon an interesting alternative to diamonds as a |
| comes from Africa. The finest color is already | | | | gemstone to offset or dress up colored |
| becoming scarce, so it is difficult to predict the | | | | gemstones. But care needs to be exercised |
| future for this interesting newcomer. | | | | because zircon is brittle and will chip or abrade |
| - Tanzanite | | | | easily. For this reason, zircon is recommended for |
| See Zoisite below. | | | | earrings, pendants, brooches, or rings with |
| - Titanite (Sphene) | | | | protective setting. |
| Titanite is another "new" gem that is beginning to | | | | - Zoisite (Tanzanite) |
| appear and offers some interesting possibilities for | | | | Zoisite was not considered a gem material until |
| jewelry market. While it has been highly regarded | | | | 1967, when a beautiful rich, blue to purple blue, |
| for many years, its relative scarcity prevented its | | | | transparent variety was found in Tanzania (hence |
| wide scale use in jewelry. Today, however, new | | | | tanzanite). Tanzanite can possess a rich, sapphire |
| sources have been discovered and we are | | | | blue color, possibly with some violet red or |
| beginning to see greater availability. | | | | greenish yellow flashes. A gem green variety has |
| This is a beautiful, brilliant gemstone, with a | | | | recently been discovered, which is being called |
| diamond like (adamantine) luster and fire that is | | | | "green tanzanite"or "chrome tanzanite." The green |
| even greater than in diamond. Unfortunately, it is | | | | can be a very lovely shade, ranging from a slightly |
| soft. Its colors range from grass green to golden | | | | yellowish green to gray green to bluish green. |
| yellow to brown. | | | | Supply is limited, so time will tell whether or not |
| There is need for some caution because of this | | | | this green variety will be readily available to the |
| stone's softness. We suggest that it is especially | | | | public. |
| suitable for pendants, earrings, brooches, and | | | | But one must be cautious. It is relatively soft, so |
| protective ring settings. | | | | we do not recommend tanzanite for rings (unless |
| - Topaz | | | | it's set in a very protected setting) or for every |
| True topaz, symbol of love and affection, aid to | | | | day wear in which it would be exposed to knocks |
| sweetness of disposition, and birthstone for | | | | and other abuse. |