| Sri Lanka has long been known for its richness in | | | | yellow, brown, (rarely) blue, (very rarely) red and |
| gems. In fact, it was the first information about | | | | often colorless. In any color, it shows a stunning |
| Sri Lanka that came to Europe: "An island on | | | | fire and magnificent luster. Mostly very clean and |
| which the rivers are filled with gems." That, of | | | | found in good sizes zircon is a yet little known |
| course, is somewhat exaggerated, but the | | | | opportunity for novice collectors and experimental |
| pioneers of those days needed good reasons | | | | jewelry makers. They offer adorable colors and |
| to leave home for years on end, to convince | | | | excellent luster for every budget. A light yellow |
| investors and to get sailors to sign up for the long | | | | zircon is nearly as fascinating as a fancy diamond. |
| and dangerous trip. At any rate, it is true: Sri | | | | Sri Lanka has for centuries been the best source |
| Lanka is blessed with rare earths. Only after the | | | | of gem quality zircons. As a rule, zircons are even |
| discovery of gemstone deposits on Madagascar | | | | better in person than their images. The |
| could any country compete with the abundance | | | | birefringence of zircon is so dominant that it is |
| found in Sri Lanka. But since the Madagascan gem | | | | difficult to photograph clearly. Additionally, they are |
| trade is dominated by Sri Lankans, this did not | | | | often so brilliant that they seem to simply mirror |
| harm Sri Lanka's image gem trade in any | | | | light on the image. The strong luster of zircon is |
| way.Since a lot has been said about the famous | | | | rather hindering for the color show and when it |
| rubies and sapphires, we would like to offer some | | | | comes to zircons, one shall rather trust the seller |
| insight into the 'new' varieties that lately entered | | | | than the photo. Of course, this can be said as a |
| the gem market mainly via the Internet. With | | | | general rule. Don't buy gems based on photos |
| regard to the fact that these stones are widely | | | | but on the reputation of the seller and based on |
| bought based on photos, I have also added some | | | | the security of his return policy. It is not a |
| remarks on how these less popular varieties | | | | pleasant shopping experience if you buy a bad |
| behave in front of the camera. | | | | stone with a super photo that can't be returned. |
| Spinel: Spinel come in a vast variety of colors, | | | | |
| but are not as confusing as the garnet family. The | | | | Aquamarine: Unfortunately, we do not get many |
| most famous colors in spinel are blue and red, but | | | | aquamarines in Sri Lanka. Those we get are of |
| one will find fine purple, violet, pink, mauve, | | | | light colors (untreated of course) with a greenish |
| greenish, or black spinel. They also come with | | | | blue hue. The most expensive color in Sri Lanka is |
| stars and color changes but have not yet gained | | | | a sky blue. In former times, the most wanted |
| much attention. What dignifies all spinel is their | | | | color was actually (in line with the name) the |
| excellent luster and durability for jewelry. The | | | | greenish blue. However today the sky blue is |
| king amongst blue spinel is a rare variety colored | | | | higher priced. Even more than amongst sapphires, |
| not by iron but by cobalt. This cobalt spinel is | | | | aquamarines are generally heated to get stronger |
| found only occasionally in Sri Lanka (and | | | | blue. If you have decided to stay with natural |
| elsewhere). In the red hues, ruby-like colored | | | | gemstones, look out for light colors. I personally |
| spinel has sky rocketed in price and popularity, | | | | think the greenish blue ones are very beautiful |
| directly followed by hot pink and padparadscha | | | | and make for unique stones. Light colored |
| colors. It appears that in recent years spinel has | | | | stones are notoriously difficult to capture in |
| made it from a sometimes hardly distinguishable, | | | | photos. Especially in stones of good luster, the |
| sapphire-substitute to a variety standing on its | | | | light thrown back out of the stones tends to |
| own. Thus, they do not come cheap anymore. | | | | override the stone's color. Hence, even if an |
| Even our remotest miners have started to | | | | aquamarine has a solid clearly visible blue hue, it |
| distinguish spinel as better than other | | | | might in the photo show nearly colorless. Light |
| 'non-sapphire-gems' and thus have started to | | | | colors also make inclusions look much more |
| ask much higher prices. However, they are still a | | | | serious on the photo than in reality. Again, trust |
| comparatively reasonable alternative to ruby or | | | | the seller not the photo. |
| blue sapphire. The less known varieties of spinel | | | | Amethyst: Amethyst is a very popular |
| (purple, mauve, etc.) offer not only superb visual | | | | purple-violet quartz. It is available in fine colors and |
| experiences but are most likely also a good | | | | good sizes but does not demand high prices. A lot |
| investments in the long run. Like sapphire, spinel | | | | of amethyst is burned into citrine but the original |
| are quite photogenic. They do not deceive in color | | | | stone is much more attractive. In fact, seen in |
| or luster and are a grateful object for exquisite | | | | color/price relation, amethyst might compete with |
| images. As all gems, they are sensitive with | | | | garnets. The deep purple cross-over to violet is |
| inclusions in the lighter tones only. | | | | just delicious. Amethyst is no problem in photos. |
| Garnet: Fairly priced and full of surprises. | | | | Amethyst is grateful in front of the camera and |
| Pyrope: Pyrope is typically described as blood or | | | | makes easy realistic shots. |
| wine-red, while this name refers to the Greek | | | | Tourmaline: Tourmaline is the most versatile |
| word for "fire". Though pyrope does not have | | | | gemstone family. Not only do they show |
| what one calls "fire" in a diamond it is definitely as | | | | themselves in all colors from brown to pink, but |
| red as it gets. How red is that? In case you are | | | | they are also famous for bi- tri- and multicolored |
| familiar with Spanish wine you might have a look | | | | varieties, and rare color changers. In Sri Lanka, |
| at a Senior de Los Lamos '67, which will cost you | | | | we rarely find pink, blue and red tourmaline but |
| much more than buying a pyrope, but tastes | | | | are blessed with green, yellow and brown in all |
| better (pyrope does not). You might also take | | | | mixes and variation. For those who dislike today's |
| blood samples from your neighbor's ox, but that | | | | flashy fancy colors, tourmaline with his mellow |
| too might not be a particular wise course. It is | | | | autumnal hues offers superb alternatives. Turning |
| said that once upon a time pyrope has been | | | | a bi- or tri-colored tourmaline in the sun and |
| more popular and much higher priced. Today | | | | watching his playfully change between reddish |
| pyrope is, behind the almandine, the best deal if | | | | brown, yellowish green and mellow orange is most |
| one wants a red-red gem of significant size | | | | delightful! Pure green tourmaline can be an |
| without selling his family. In photos, pyrope | | | | alternative to emerald and is thus often cut in |
| typically shows blackish areas and little luster on | | | | baguettes and emerald shape. Tourmaline comes |
| photos. Their color gets across well, but they | | | | in good sizes, is clean and often used as healing |
| usually tend to show more orange or brown | | | | stone. We predict that tourmaline will gain more |
| than they actually have. Darker pyropes simply | | | | fame after the recent run for flashy colors has |
| refuse to be photographed yet look good in | | | | settled. Mono-colored tourmaline does not cause |
| person. They are a fine color-bargain to hunt for. | | | | any problems in front of the camera. The color |
| Hessonite: Hessonite is always clearly | | | | comes out realistic and they are not too light |
| distinguishable. See a hessonite through a lens and | | | | sensitive. Multicolored stones (showing different |
| he will appear to be melting inside, while you can | | | | colors in different zones) are also no challenge. But |
| not see anything special without the lens. Melting? | | | | things get more difficult when it comes to bi- or |
| Some gemologists call it a "treacly" or 'swirly' | | | | tri-colored stones. Sometimes it is possible to |
| appearance, which comes from inclusions that | | | | capture all colors in one angle. But more |
| actually look like a petrified fluid. Hessonite is a | | | | frequently the photographer gets sore fingers and |
| wonderful stone in all yellow-orange to brown-red | | | | a heart attack before he leaves it to the grader |
| hues. Though not in line with the standard | | | | to describe the color play in words. |
| scientific gemology literature, hessonite is currently | | | | Topaz: Natural untreated topaz is rarely available, |
| found in Sri Lanka in all red garnet colors from a | | | | and a lot of consumers buy all kinds of cheap |
| fiery orange to a, simply, traffic light red. In any | | | | synthetics, citrine or treated and irradiated |
| event, they make exquisite colored gemstones | | | | stones. This has led to much confusion and a |
| and are a true miracle when seen under the | | | | devaluation of the original topaz. However, |
| lens. Although hessonite is wonderful to look | | | | naturally colored topaz is an exquisite rarity and a |
| at in person, they struggle with serious problems | | | | true collector's item. Colorless topaz (which |
| in front of the camera. Unfortunately 'treacly' | | | | is often taken to be radiated) is a reasonable |
| transfers on a photo to 'fuzzy'. One needs to | | | | alternative to white sapphire and a good place to |
| experience a hessonite live to be able to capture | | | | start a collection. The light blue stones we find in |
| the information hidden in a photo. As a rule, | | | | Sri Lanka are a delightful brilliant sight. |
| concentrate on the color and ignore the fuzziness | | | | Unfortunately, we rarely get yellow (the "true" |
| of the photo. If you like the color you will have to | | | | topaz) or pinkish topaz. Natural colored topaz is |
| test the luster in person. | | | | notoriously difficult to photograph. Topaz, |
| Almandine: Almandine is the most famous garnet | | | | with their naturally light colors, outshine |
| variety in Sri Lanka. They seem close to pyrope | | | | themselves and (like aquamarine) tend to look |
| but are of a more intense red mingled with pink | | | | colorless even if the eye clearly captures a nice |
| and/or violet. Though often included with a very | | | | color. In any case, an untreated light blue topaz is |
| fine needle structure (which is a pleasure to see | | | | a terrific stone with a dazzling luster surpassing |
| under the lens) they do have all the fire and luster | | | | many much higher priced stones. If you see a |
| one might desire. In fact, a good almandine can be | | | | fully colored topaz on a photo, it is either heavily |
| so amazing under a spotlight that you will not | | | | treated or heavily photo-shop-faked. If not, it |
| want to take your eyes off that sparkle again. | | | | should cost a fortune. |
| Almandine is more expensive than pyrope but still | | | | Chrysoberyl: The famous color changing |
| a fine deal compared to the price of a similar | | | | alexandrite is a sub-variety of chrysoberyl. |
| color thrill in spinel or ruby. The needle structure | | | | Normal Sri Lanka chrysoberyls come in light to |
| in almandine tends to look a bit fizzy on photos. | | | | fully saturated green and fine yellow hues. They |
| Nevertheless, almandines are a pleasure to shoot | | | | are hard and durable and thus much appreciated |
| - they glimmer and sparkle in fine red tones and | | | | for jewelry. Generally of good clarity and fine |
| transfer well on images. Like pyrope, almandine | | | | luster they are a unique alternative to green or |
| color usually does not vary much between with | | | | yellow sapphire. The fabulous cat's eye is one of |
| day or tungsten light. Also, like pyrope, they tend | | | | the miracles in the world of gemstones. Fine |
| to show black-out areas which are not as dark | | | | parallel needles throughout the stone break light in |
| as they seem in reality. | | | | a way that the stone displays a ray moving |
| Rhodolite & raspberry garnets: Rhodolite and | | | | across the stone. While garnets, quartz and other |
| raspberry are red garnet with strong pink and/or | | | | varieties might show the same effect, only |
| purple hue. Both are characterized by their color | | | | chrysoberyl is correctly referred to as the cat's |
| and one will find different definitions over time and | | | | eye. Basic parameters to judge the ray is the |
| literature. However, if almandine and pyrope are | | | | definition (look for full and clear), position (should |
| wine & blood, raspberry and rhodolite are | | | | be centered) and the movement (should be |
| berry & flowers. They are the best deal in | | | | flawless) across the stone. While faceted |
| town for progressive color adventures. Both have | | | | chrysoberyl is easy to capture, a cat's eye needs |
| excellent luster and a "juicy" color play that often | | | | a strong single light source to display the ray. This |
| mocks any description in plain words. Truly | | | | is difficult without changing the color of the stone |
| appetizing colors: Grading them sometimes | | | | in the yellow tungsten light. Therefore when |
| makes me want to rush to the market to see | | | | buying cat's eye on the web, one should also pay |
| whether I can find some berries. Both stones can | | | | attention to the 'official' color description and |
| be miraculous and nerve-wrecking in front of the | | | | grading. |
| camera. They are the chameleons amongst | | | | Kornerupine: Kornerupine is a fine new opportunity |
| gemstones. We have seen furious discussions | | | | for the collector of natural colors. Until recently, |
| between photographer and grader about what is | | | | quasi non-existent in the gem market, kornerupine |
| the "real" color. Truth seems to be that there is | | | | has now found attention as a nice untreated |
| no truth. But that doesn't matter much because | | | | gemstone in very unique hues: From mellow |
| these stones always excel their photos. | | | | green mingled with yellowish and brown tints to |
| Color change garnet: Color changing garnets are | | | | forest green. Depending on the cut, some stones |
| an exquisite rarity (and I mean rarity) in Sri Lanka. | | | | show different colors from different angels but |
| In absence of any gemologist, most traders and | | | | they are not as unpredictable as tourmaline (with |
| miners in Sri Lanka consider (or wishfully think) | | | | which they are often confused). Though |
| any color change garnet to be an alexandrite and | | | | kornerupine has entered the gem market only |
| thus have dollar signs in their eyes when they get | | | | recently, we have so far always received positive |
| their hands on one. Therefore, most color | | | | feed back from those who ventured to buy this |
| changing garnets start their life as alexandrite, but | | | | unknown variety. Similar to other green stones |
| somewhere down the supply chain somebody has | | | | kornerupine likes to be photographed. When it |
| a bad awaking with them. On the other side, one | | | | comes to pleochroic effects, things get more |
| must ask, why does a beautifully changing garnet | | | | difficult. Since stones are cut him one color, this |
| have only 10% of the value of a dully changing | | | | should not be much trouble. |
| pale alexandrite? That of course is a complex | | | | Diopside: Though soft, diopside has raised some |
| question of market mechanism. If one simply | | | | attention from jewelry makers for its strong but |
| admires the magic of color change, hunt the last | | | | reasonable priced green hues. Chrome diopside |
| color change garnets before the deposits are | | | | has actually become quite famous and expensive |
| depleted. Catching color change on photos is one | | | | for its emerald green. However, it is soft and has |
| of the trickiest tasks in gemstone photography. | | | | to be protected in jewelry. In Sri Lanka, we |
| This counts not only for garnet, but also for all | | | | mostly find the mellow green hues mingled with |
| color changers. It is so tricky, that I can only | | | | some lively yellow. Together with kornerupine, |
| warn of too good looking cheap color changers. A | | | | diopside make the most exciting new discovery in |
| color change that is fully visible on photo without | | | | the world of green gems. Especially the cat's eye |
| photoshop tricks is truly rare and will never be | | | | variety seems to have huge potential as an |
| cheap (at least not in natural stones). | | | | alternative to the more expensive chrysoberyl. |
| Zircon: Zircon has suffered much bad PR due to | | | | Due to his strong birefringence, diopside tends to |
| synthetic stones with the trade name "Cubic | | | | come out slightly fuzzy and light green hues |
| Zirconia". In addition to this, the use of zircon as | | | | present inclusions stronger that the lens shows |
| a cheap diamond rip-off has led many people to | | | | them. |
| believe that zircon is synthetic or some kind of | | | | Sinhalite: Sinhalite is the Sri Lankan stone (in regard |
| fake. It is not! Zircon is a wonderful gemstone | | | | to the origin of the name). It is usually found in |
| variety that has much more to offer than all the | | | | fine yellow brownish colors and highly priced in |
| treated zircon in uniformed colors roaming the | | | | honey yellow. Sinhalite is a rare collector item that |
| jewelry market. Zircon is the most brilliant of all | | | | was identified only a few decades ago. Though |
| colored gemstone (only thus could it be misused | | | | uncommon in jewelry, it has all the qualities to be |
| as an imitation for diamonds). Its brilliance and | | | | mounted and we would love to see more of it. |
| luster is unbeatable and its high birefringence is | | | | As long as the color is not too light, sinhalite poses |
| most unique. Naturally colored zircon can be green, | | | | well in front of the camera. |