| After a beautiful breakfast in the garden at | | | | time, we plunked ourselves down beside the river |
| Roxana's place with Helga, the young lab with | | | | and unpacked our beautiful picnic bag, she had |
| shiniest black coat, dancing all around me, I went | | | | made three different types of sandwiches, |
| to my private tutoring session at the Ideal | | | | brought a wonderful container of refreshing juice |
| Language School where my teacher Estela and I | | | | and some brownies, and the girls started to talk |
| talked at length about various dental procedures, | | | | and compare notes about growing up in Mexico |
| funny doctor stories, and stories of unexplainable | | | | and Austria respectively. It's amazing how two |
| events and psychic happenings. We also touched | | | | people can come from such different |
| on the topic of personal security, and that a | | | | backgrounds, i.e. Marta Elena grew up in a very |
| number of years ago there were quite a few | | | | well to-do family while my family background is |
| kidnappings and robberies of buses. Additional | | | | much more humble, but somehow we had a |
| security has brought the situation under control | | | | great connection. We took a stroll through the |
| and safety has improved considerably. I also | | | | grounds and saw the various swimming pools and |
| asked Estela about some practical safety advice | | | | playgrounds and also checked out an area |
| for myself, traveling as a woman alone. She gave | | | | containing 31 units with 3 bunk beds each which is |
| me a few basic common-sense pieces of advice: | | | | used for children's camps. A fishing pond was right |
| - don't wear any ostentatious jewellery or | | | | next door. After our nature outing we stopped at |
| extravagant clothing - never walk by yourself at | | | | another local attraction: a well-known local market |
| night - never walk in deserted streets - leave | | | | for orchids. Of course, Marta Elena is an avid |
| your jewellery, valuables and documents at home | | | | gardener and I, although equipped with a black |
| - curry your bag in front of your body - at night | | | | thumb, like to look at flowers, so off we went to |
| always take a radio taxi that is called from the | | | | look at several greenhouses full of different |
| restaurant where you are staying. They are much | | | | varieties of orchids. Marta Elena, being the expert, |
| more trustworthy than street taxis. Around 11 | | | | could tell me in Latin which varieties we were |
| am a local street merchant came by to sell | | | | dealing with, I on the other hand was fascinated |
| typically Mexican sweets and I ended up buying | | | | with the alien expressions on these horticultural |
| thin sheets of oblates (obleas), stuck together | | | | beauties. Apparently these orchids are shipped all |
| with honey and decorated with pumpkin seeds. I | | | | over the world. The day was immensely hot and |
| also bought a square of peanuts glued together | | | | I was melting in the sun, so I sat down under a |
| with caramel - all very yummy treats. I don't | | | | lovely palapa and I asked the lady working at the |
| know how the locals can resist all these tasty | | | | greenhouses to bring us some popsicles, and |
| foods that are available everywhere....Then I | | | | three popsicles later I finally felt that my thirst |
| headed off onto the public bus again and into | | | | was quenched a little. As a small gesture of |
| downtown Cuernavaca. I had to change buses | | | | appreciation for her time and the lovely lunch, I |
| and exited one on the Zocalo and hopped on the | | | | got Martha Elena a special yellow variety of |
| second one below the Palacio Cortes. The | | | | orchids for inviting me on this special outing. With |
| Cuernavaca public transit system is a breeze for | | | | our aesthetic senses appropriately satisfied we |
| me at this point. A demonstration was in full swing | | | | made our way back through the dry mountains |
| in front of the Palacio del Gobierno, local | | | | south of Cuernavaca and rejoined the hustle and |
| inhabitants of nearby villages were demonstrating | | | | bustle of the city. Marta Elena dropped me off |
| and when I enquired, they told me it was about | | | | right in front of the cathedral and after a cordial |
| the fact that the government is developing areas | | | | hug we decided to definitely link up again before |
| in their villages which they would rather see | | | | my departure next week. Alberto, my friend |
| designated as protected nature areas. The main | | | | Vanessa's cousin, and a local resident of |
| issue, they explained, is a shortage of water and | | | | Cuernavaca had recommended me to visit his |
| this issue has apparently being going on 70 years. | | | | friend Jose Manuel who owns a little café, |
| The bus took me to Martha Elena's house who | | | | appropriately named El Cafecito, right across from |
| was already waiting for me and had put together | | | | the main entrance to the Cathedral. I plunked |
| a wonderful picnic basket. Then the two of us | | | | myself down at one of the tables outside the |
| adventurous mujeres took off in her vehicle and | | | | café on the sidewalk and watched some of |
| we went towards Las Estacas, a local riverside | | | | the colourful street life pass by. Several local |
| resort that she had never been to. I got a chance | | | | women carrying what seemed like hundreds of |
| to see the southern parts of Cuernavaca, and the | | | | different necklaces approached me, displayed and |
| traffic exiting the city was the usual chaotic mess, | | | | promoted their attractive jewellery items. I caved |
| but somehow it all works out. It would certainly | | | | in and bought several very decorative necklaces |
| take me a while to get used to the driving | | | | that were supposedly made of semi-precious |
| conditions here. People squeeze in wherever they | | | | stones like malachite, tiger's eye, coral, etc. |
| can, particularly the drivers of the rutas, the small | | | | although I have a feeling for about $4 each they |
| local buses. The bus in front of us squeezed in | | | | are probably made more of attractive plastic than |
| and cut across 3 lanes to make a left turn. This | | | | real stone, but you never know..... I found them |
| guy was certainly not taking any prisoners... We | | | | quite enchanting. After a while Jose Manuel came |
| drove out of town through a hilly but extremely | | | | and joined me at my table. He mentioned that me |
| dry area. All the hills were brown, spring | | | | has a brother who is working in Toronto. This is |
| surprisingly is the equivalent of our summer - | | | | not surprising, many local Mexican people that I |
| everything is hot and dry with very little rain. The | | | | have met have a Canadian connection. He even |
| rainy season actually begins in late May, early | | | | said that he has experienced temperatures of up |
| June, and summer is cooler than spring. A strange | | | | to - 5 degrees in Arizona once, which was barely |
| concept to get your head around. After about an | | | | bearable for a Mexican who is used to 25 degrees |
| hour of driving through Mexican country villages | | | | + all the time. Jose Manuel graciously called me a |
| with horses and donkeys grazing right next to the | | | | taxi, a "Radio Taxi", which is highly recommended |
| street and men riding in the back of trucks, we | | | | after dark which whisked me up into my beautiful |
| arrived at Las Estacas. We started our walk | | | | residence at RX Villa in the Rancho Cortez area. |
| through the grounds, across a hanging bridge over | | | | Time for some laundry and for writing up some |
| a river with extremely clear and blue water. Marta | | | | stories and resting up my leg for another day of |
| Elena was explaining to me that the fish that we | | | | discoveries tomorrow... |
| saw were extremely good for chowder, but not | | | | Susanne Pacher is the publisher of a web portal |
| useable for other dishes since they contain so | | | | for unconventional travel & cross-cultural |
| many bones. Since it was about 1 pm by this | | | | connections. |